Scheduled to come into force in 2026, the Ecodesign Directive will prohibit all fashion companies from destroying unsold garments. Brands will then have two options: turn to the secondary market or proceed to recycling textile products. The latter option poses a problem for mixed fibers containing elastomers.
When a mixed fabric undergoes defibering or chemical dissolution processes, elastomers tend to break down into rubbery formations or stick to other fibers. This ultimately contaminates the material, which can no longer be recycled, and can even affect the functionality of the machinery used.
Research and technological innovation are essential to maximize garment recycling and contribute to the circularity of the fashion economy. And finally, something is in the works.
Elastane in mixed fibers: the latest innovations in recycling
Recent technology that can work on mixed nylon and elastane fabrics has arrived from Denmark. Researchers at Aarhus University have developed a system that breaks down elastane. This makes it possible to separate elastane chains from other materials and increase their recycling rate.
The method developed by the Technical University of Vienna is different: the researchers have identified a solvent that selectively removes elastane, without attacking the other components. Materials such as polyester and polyamide, which are extensively used for clothing, can be reclaimed by almost 100 percent, and even the same solvent can be reused.
Important news also comes from Italy. Next Technology Tecnotessile is a research company that has developed a chemical process by which both fiber and elastomer can be reclaimed. It is by no means a coincidence that the company is based in the textile district of Prato, where Corertex, our textile recycling and reuse partner is also based.
Where recycling falls short, the secondary market comes into play
These early technological innovations point to further developments for the future. Until research can reach procedures that can maximize textile recycling, the only alternative for fashion brands is to relocate unsold stock to secondary markets, which are additional to those of origin.
This is exactly what we do at MA Export: we solve the problem of unsold stock. Discover our services dedicated to clothing, accessories and footwear manufacturers and distributors, or get in touch with us now.